This story begins in Yogyakarta on the Indonesian island of Java in December of 2017. I was there to return to the place where I got my first REAL job teaching English for the U.S. State Department and the city where our first daughter, Bahiya, was born 45 years earlier. It was a special place that I always wanted to go back to. Best of all, the original Hotel where we first stayed stayed (The Purity Artha Hotel) was still in business and in the same location.
The courtyard of the Puri Artha Hotel in Yogyakarta
Christmas Eve, 2017. The hotel was celebrating the night with a special dinner and entertainment for the guests. I decided it would be fun so I agreed to attend. The hotel assigned me to a table with another random traveler from Italy, named Sergio. Sergio was stranded at the hotel while his wife was doing a Yoga workshop about 40 miles away in the city of Solo. I was at the hotel waiting until I could get into my Airbnb Rental 4 days later. We sort of talked a bit at the "soiree" but conversation was difficult over the noise. But in the following days we would meet during the morning buffet at the hotel. Much quieter and more leisurely.
It was a nice time to chat since neither of us had an agenda. Somehow during our morning chats, it seemed as though Sergio was a representative for the Lucca Tourist Organization. Lucca is located in Tuscany but I had never heard of the place. Well, that was soon to change. Sergio was determined. Lucca was the most wonderful place on the planet. Lucca was the middle of the Universe. Lucca was the alpha and Omega(look it up!) of existence. Yup. So...I decided to make my own decision. In September of 2018, I called his bluff. I'd make my own decision, thank you very much.
Well. As things unfolded, I had to eat crow.
Sergio and Michele in Lucca in 2018
Lucca turned out to be fun, funny, historic, fascinating, playful, stunningly beautiful, and, for me, Paradise. I just felt like I belonged there.
For those who have never heard of the place that I just stumbled upon(Serendipity!), I should at least try to describe what I found. Lucca sits between the two historical big boys of Tuscany... Pisa and Florence. In order to survive the constant threats to their survival, the people decided to build an enormous wall around the city...30 feet tall and 30 wide at the top. 100 years in the making and the massive wall was obsolete before the last bricks were cemented into place. OK.
So the good folks of Lucca decided to turn the walls into a giant circular park. It is this giant playground on top of the wall that draws thousands of people out of their apartments every afternoon. It also attracts millions of people from around the globe searching for a totally different definition of relaxation. Walk the wall, bike the wall, run the wall, meditate on the wall, get married on the wall, walk the dogs on the wall, gasp at the scenery from the wall. It's whatever you want to make it.
On top of the wall/park in Lucca. About 2 miles around.
So I came here by Serendipity. I return out of choice.
But Serendipity wasn't quite done with me yet. No way baby.
Yesterday, I had absolutely nothing planned. I just knew I needed to get out of the apartment and walk into the inner city (the old Roman city inside the walls). On a whim, I decided to visit the big exposition at the City Hall/Royal Palace, a huge monstrosity of a Baroque building in the center of the city. This year the city invited artists around the world to exhibit their creations made only from paper/cardboard. Some of the bigger sculptures are placed around the city in outdoor locations. The smaller and more delicate displays had to be protected indoors. This exhibit inside was my destination.
The old Royal Palace & current City Hall on Napoleon plaza
When I arrived at the Palace, I proceeded up the monumental staircase, and bought my entry ticket. The woman behind the counter asked me if I wanted to purchase an audio guide to the exhibit... only $2.00. Usually, I don't get the guide, but on a whim(Serendipity in fact) I decided to purchase the audio guide for the paper art works expo.
As I wound my way through the gallery, I was stunned by the variety and beauty of what talented artists can do using only paper as a medium. As I walked into a darkened room I was spellbound by a set of 3 hanging pieces that were displayed as circular panels and illuminated by a light in the center.
Magical scenes cut out of a sheet of paper, illuminated
As the light shown through the paper, a complex world of tiny creatures and magical events appeared. This was unbelievable. There was one other person in this room and I was a bit annoyed that she was touching these very delicate panels. Maybe she just wanted to see how they were made. Not my call to tell her to keep her hands off the display. As I listened to the explanation of the art and the artist on my audio guide she approached me because she could hear the commentary. "Excuse me", she said in English. I had nowhere to hide. She explained that she was trying to hear what was being said on the guide because SHE WAS THE ARTIST!!! She just happened to be there when I stumbled in, overhead the comments, and introduced herself. Was this Serendipity or what?
Layla May Arthur--Paper Artist & Illustrator from Holland
My first reaction was " Sure you are. And I'm the king of England. Nice to meet you. Then I got a grip and started pumping her with questions.
"How do you imagine the scenes on the panel?"
"Oh, you know from stories your parents told you when you were a child.". (Not my parents.)
" How long does it take to finish a panel?"
"About 2-3 months." 2-3 MONTHS for a 2 foot sheet of paper!
"Do you work from a sketch?"
"Sometimes."
"And the other times?"
"Oh you know, just from my imagination". (I can't relate to that because I don't have any imagination)
" How do you make such delicate cuts on paper? "
"With a scalpel." (Yup, a scalpel)
"How were you chosen to be an exhibitor?"
"By submitting a sample of my work online". (Of course. Just like the rest of us.)
After about 15 minutes of non-stop questioning her, a group of school kids converged on us. I introduced the artist to the group and made a hasty retreat for the exit. I just couldn't handle any more Serendipity.
So that's my story. And I'm stickin to it.
Just for kicks. Her website is viewable at:
www.laylamayarthur.com
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